Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (2024)

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ByAdam Kuban

Updated May 08, 2020

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Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (1)

This is my go-to recipe for homemade bagels. It's adapted from Bernard Clayton's Complete Book of Breads. Clayton, in turn, got the recipe from the folks at the now-defunct Jo Goldenberg's, the famous Jewish restaurant and delicatessen in Le Marais, the historical Jewish quarter of Paris.

These bagels take about thee hours from start to finish, a large chunk of that time being the hourlong rise and the 30 or so minutes in the oven. Make these for a brunch party, tell your guests they came from your oven, and watch their socks get knocked off. There's something about homemade bagels that really impresses people.

Recipe Details

Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe

Active60 mins

Total3 hrs

Serves10 bagels

Ingredients

  • 19.25 ounces bread flour (3 1/2 cups; 530g)

  • 1/4 ounceinstant dry yeast (2 1/2 teaspoons; 1 envelope active dry; 7g)

  • 2 tablespoons sugar

  • 1 tablespoon salt

  • 12 ounces hot water(1 1/2 cups; 340g; 120°–130°F)

  • 1 1/2 tablespoons malt syrup (for the boiling water; alternatively, you can use 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar)

  • 1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water (optional, for toppings)

Directions

  1. Add all the dry ingredients to the bowl of a food processor and pulse until mixed, about 5 seconds. With processor running, slowly add the water; process until dough comes together and rides up over the blade, about 30 seconds. Continue processing until dough becomes satiny and elastic, about 30 seconds more.

  2. Transfer dough to a large, lightly oiled bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

  3. After dough has risen but before you divide and shape it, prepare your water bath: Add the malt syrup to 6 quarts of water over high heat and let it come to a boil as you continue with the following steps.

    Also: Preheat the oven to 400°F.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (3)

  4. After dough has doubled in bulk, turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface and press down with your fingers to expel the gases. Divide dough into 10 equal portions.

  5. Ball a portion of dough, then roll it into a "rope" about 7 inches long and about 1 inch thick. (Tip: I like to taper the ends slightly in preparation for the next step.)

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (4)

  6. Wrap the dough around the back of your hand, overlapping the ends in your palm. Place your hand, along with the dough, palm-down on the work surface and roll dough back and forth until ends crimp and seal together. Place dough ring under a span of plastic wrap while you repeat rope-and-loop process with remaining dough portions.

    Tip: You can brush a little water on the ends to help them stick, but this dough is wet enough that it usually comes together without help.

    A note on hand size: The recipe calls for wrapping the rope around your palm, but I like a smaller, tighter bagel, so I wrap it around my first three fingers, as shown. If you have a smaller hand, you could probably wrap it around all your fingers.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (5)

  7. Allow bagels to rise again for 10 minutes. At this point, your malt syrup–water should be boiling. Use a skimmer or slotted spoon to carefully add bagels, one at a time, to the water. (Note: no more in the pot than 3 at a time.) Bagels should sink but then rise again after a few seconds. Simmer for 1 minute, flipping bagels at the 30-second mark.

    Tip: The original recipe calls for this second rising, but I often skip it. I've found it makes very little, if any, noticeable difference.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (6)

  8. Remove bagels from water with skimmer or slotted spoon to a clean kitchen towel. Pat dry.

    If making plain bagels, proceed to Step 10.

  9. For bagel toppings: Place bagels on wire cooling rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Brush bagel tops with egg-water mixture. Shake on desired toppings. Sesame seed, poppy seed, kosher salt, minced onion, and minced garlic are classic (at least in NYC).

    The baking sheet will collect excess dry toppings (such as sesame or poppy seeds). Simply pour them back into their containers for reuse.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (7)

  10. Place bagels on prepared baking sheet. Bake until light brown and shiny, 15 to 20 minutes. Flip, and bake until reverse side is golden-brown and shiny, about 10 minutes more.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (8)

Special equipment

Large baking sheet, oiled with shortening or nonstick cooking spray and then dusted with cornmeal (or just use a nonstick baking sheet or parchment)

This Recipe Appears In

  • How to Make Bagels at Home
  • Baking
Nutrition Facts (per serving)
213Calories
1g Fat
43g Carbs
7g Protein

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Nutrition Facts
Servings: 10
Amount per serving
Calories213
% Daily Value*
Total Fat 1g1%
Saturated Fat 0g1%
Cholesterol 0mg0%
Sodium 638mg28%
Total Carbohydrate 43g16%
Dietary Fiber 1g5%
Total Sugars 5g
Protein 7g
Vitamin C 0mg0%
Calcium 12mg1%
Iron 1mg3%
Potassium 70mg1%
*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice.

(Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate.)

Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (2024)

FAQs

What is the secret to making bagels? ›

10 Tips for Making Schmear-Worthy Homemade Bagels
  • Moisture: Wetter dough means crispier bagels. ...
  • Water temp: The colder the better. ...
  • Dry active yeast: Let it chill. ...
  • Flour: Embrace the gluten. ...
  • Mixing: Low and slow is the way to go. ...
  • The rise: Your kitchen climate is A-okay. ...
  • Flavor kick: After the proof.
Jan 13, 2023

Why are my homemade bagels tough? ›

When too much flour is kneaded in, bagels become dense, hard and tough, instead of crisp and chewy. It can easily take 10 minutes of mixing and kneading before the right texture and gluten strength is achieved. This is what the inside of a well-made bagel should look like.

How do you make homemade bagels less chewy? ›

Swapping in ½ cup of whole-wheat flour for ½ cup of the bread flour will make the bagels slightly less chewy but will also give them a boost of flavor.

What makes a good bagel? ›

A good bagel should have a thin, shiny, crackly crust spotted with the kind of microblisters that you can only get from proper boiling followed by a high-temperature bake. It's these little bubbles that add both surface area and crunch.

What kind of flour is best for bagels? ›

Bread flour – Because of its high protein content, bread flour makes these homemade bagels delightfully chewy. This recipe also works with all-purpose flour, they're just a bit less chewy than bagels made with bread flour. Maple syrup – It activates the yeast and gives the bagels a hint of sweetness.

How do you make bagels taste better? ›

How to Make Bagels More Flavorful AND Make Them Ahead of Time. Besides choosing flavorful toppings or mix-ins, an easy way to develop better flavor in your bagel dough and make them ahead of time to finish off the morning you want to serve them is to allow them to ferment in the fridge for up to 48 hours.

Can you overmix bagel dough? ›

Despite getting some nice blistering, overworked doughs don't retain gas well and resist expansion, leading to a dense ring with a tight crumb.

How do you make bagels smooth? ›

Boiling: Before baking, bagels are first boiled briefly in water. This step is essential for achieving the characteristic chewy texture and shiny crust of a bagel. The boiling process gelatinizes the starch on the surface of the dough, creating a thin, smooth layer that gives the bagel its shine.

What to do when bagels get hard? ›

To help soften a hard bagel, simply wrap it in a moist paper towel and microwave it for 15 seconds. You can also set the bagel on a microwave-safe plate, then surround it with a few water drops or lightly mist it and put it in the microwave for 30 seconds.

How do you keep bagels from hardening? ›

If the bagels are fresh from the bakery, make sure they cool completely before you put them in the plastic bag. It's also important to squeeze any excess air out of the bag before sealing it, otherwise the bagels might harden. Stored this way, whole bagels should stay fresh for about six days.

What does baking soda do to bagels? ›

Baking soda makes the water more alkaline, giving the bagels a pretzel-like quality that contributes to their chewiness. Just one teaspoon helps the bagels develop a shiny, dark-brown exterior as they bake.

Why does New York water make bagels better? ›

According to popular mythology, the uniquely superb texture of the New York bagel has to do with New York City's water — specifically, its low concentrations of calcium and magnesium, which make it softer.

Why are NY bagels so good? ›

NYC bagel purists will claim the main difference between a New York bagel vs. a regular bagel is the water you boil them in. Much like a specific vineyard terroir is used to make a wine, certain minerals in New York City tap water are attributed to creating the best bagels.

Is bagel dough the same as bread dough? ›

Bagels are usually made from a stiff, dry dough, with hydrations in the range of 55 to 65% (compared to soft sandwich or crusty artisan breads, which are usually 65% hydration and higher). This helps give them their signature tight crumb structure and their chew.

What makes bagels in New York so good? ›

a regular bagel is the water you boil them in. Much like a specific vineyard terroir is used to make a wine, certain minerals in New York City tap water are attributed to creating the best bagels. These include low concentrations of calcium and magnesium and a high level of sediment.

What is done to bagels to give them their dense texture? ›

In order for the bagels to develop that well-browned exterior and slightly dense chewy texture, they must be boiled briefly before baking. This works because the boiling water sets the exterior crust before it hits the oven, preventing the bagels from rising very much, while further developing that browned exterior.

What makes New York bagels different from other bagels? ›

A New York–style bagel is always boiled in water that has had barley malt added, which gives a bagel its signature taste, texture, and leathery skin.

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